the starseed journey

The last frontier. It sounds so ominous and wild, and trust me… it is. Alaska offers so much adventure; from hiking on glaciers to getting up close and personal with wildlife. And if luck favors you, or the right weather conditions, you may even get a late night show in the sky from the northern lights.

We rented a campervan from Northern Nomads, and spent 10 days roadtripping from the Northern Lights of Denali to the hiking glaciers on the Kenai Peninsula. Below are the places we visited, what we loved doing, and important things to know. Get ready to pack your bags, the last frontier is calling.

Things to Know

1. When to go
   • The best time to visit Alaska is May through September. This is when you’ll find the best weather for travelling, but also when you will find most of the towns open. Alaskan towns close “for the season”; meaning lots of the business close down late September through early May due to the weather and lack of tourists coming through. We visited the last week of September and found this to be true in most places we visited. If it weren’t for the campervan we were staying in and having a built-in kitchen wherever we went, I imagine our trip would be a lot less enjoyable due to the few restaurant options available in the “off season”. However, if you’re looking to enjoy Alaska without the crowds, the off season might be perfect for you!
2. What to pack
   • Layers. It can swing from cold to hot, rain to sunshine, so it’s best to bring layers you can mix and match throughout the day.
   • I recommend bringing a sturdy rain jacket. I thought my Columbia lightweight rain jacket would suffice, but it was soaked through after a day of exploring in the rain.
   • If you’re visiting in the fall or winter seasons, pack a pair of rain pants to slide over whatever you’re wearing. I felt like it would be a waste buying and bringing rain pants, but they were a lifesaver to keep me dry and warm on days where we were adventuring in the rain.
   • A pair of rain or snow boots if you plan on visiting in the off season. You’ll see most of the residents trudging around in rain boats all day long so you won’t be out of place. Plus, it’s no fun having to put on shoes after they’ve been soaked from the weather.
   • Sturdy hiking boots if you plan on exploring the wilderness a bit or making your way to a glacier.

Anchorage

Chances are Anchorage is the city you’ll arrive in if you’re flying to Alaska. It is one of the northernmost cities in the world, and will offer what most cities do; a plethora of bars, restaurants, museums, and shopping. But it is also a great hub for adventures that are a short drive away.

What to Do

• Tony Knowles Coastal Trail: As an 11 mile trail running through anchorage, this is the perfect walking or biking adventure in the city. It provides beautiful views of the city and surrounding mountains. You may even stumble across a Moose or two so keep your eyes peeled, and keep your distance.
• Hike Flattop Mountain: Sporting panoramic views of the surrounding areas, this hike can be a short walk from the parking lot or made into a 1 to 5 mile hike if you’re up for some exercise. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Aleutian Islands!
• Anchorage Market: From mid-May to mid-September, this outdoor market brings hundreds of vendors selling food, gifts, and more every Saturday & Sunday. It’s a great place to find local Alaskan made items.
• Hatcher Pass Scenic Drive: Just over an hour drive North of the city is a beautiful 50 mile stretch to drive, sightsee, and enjoy the outdoors. Make sure to stop by the Hatcher Pass lodge to see the iconic red lodges nestled in the hills. Sometimes this road may be closed or snowed out at parts.
• Thunderbird Falls: An easy one mile trail that offers a beautiful view of a small waterfall during any season. This trail is only half an hour north of Anchorage.
• Reflections Lake: Just over 30 min North of the city and right off the highway, this small lake is a beautiful place to stop for a picnic or walk the one mile loop around the shore.
• Eklunta Lake: This beautiful glacier fed lake is a popular sport to hike, kayak, or camp. Twin Peaks trail is a 5 mile round trip hike providing an overlook of the lake. You may even spot some Dall sheep on the grassy slopes. Or get out on the lake by renting a kayak for $40. At only an hour drive away from Anchorage, it’s the perfect outing to get out of the city or stop over on your drive North.
• Breweries: Anchorage has no shortage of breweries in it’s growing craft beer scene. Whether your looking to pick up a few beers or stop in for tastings, here are several options for you to clench your thirst:
  1. 49th State Brewing: Enjoy some award-winning beer on a rooftop patio with some great Alaskan views.
  2. Midnight Sun: Known for their barrel-aged stouts and barley wine, this small brewery is one to check out for a beer in their loft or to grab some cold ones to go.
  3. King Street: Small microbrewery in anchorage with a tasting room and on-site foodtrucks most days.

Bars

• Clandestino: A top secret taco speakeasy located behind the Bubbly Mermaid.
• The Speakeasy at Williwaw Social: A cool little speakeasy serving up tasty cocktails that requires you to call in from a phonebooth for the password.
• Anchorage Distillery: Whether you like your alcohol straight up or mixed, they make it here from grain to glass.
• Chilkoot Charlies: Known as “Koot’s” by the locals, this bar is world famous. With a multi-area “night-club” feel, there is always something going on here from live music, DJs, to comedians.
• Humpy’s: A laid-back pub and grub vibe, they have a huge selection of beers here and live music.
• Van’s Dive Bar: If you like dive bars, you won’t want to miss this small bar with live music and good times.

Restaurants:

• 49th State Brewing: A large brewpub with a rooftop patio serving up great beers and food. Try the vegan burger or pizzas!
• Tequila 61: A rustic chic restaurant with modern Mexican food and delicious cocktails. They offer a veggie taco plate and a few appetizers that can all be made vegan.
• International House of Hot Dogs: A permanent food truck walk-up with outdoor picnic tables. They have a vegan sausage that can be subbed into a majority of the hot dogs. My favorite was the Chicago dog with a vegan sausage and fries.
• Snow City Cafe: Popular diner style brunch spot, with many options for all. Make sure to arrive early or make reservations. I got the vegan scramble which was tasty!
• Moose’s Tooth: This colorful pizza spot felt nostalgic of an old school pizza joint mixed with good beers. Customize your own pizza and choose a vegan crust and cheese!

Denali

With six million acres of mountains, tundra, and forest, Denali National Park is a must for your Alaskan road trip. Lace up those hiking boots and get ready to take in views of the terrain and wildlife.

I recommend visiting the park during mid-May through mid-September if you want to be able to explore all the park and local towns have to offer. We visited after the summer season in late September which was great since they open up the park for you to drive to mile 29, instead of the normal mile 15. We did miss out on being able to take the shuttle buses further into the park. I would only visit the park during the off-season if you have an RV or lodging with a kitchen as almost all of the restaurants/coffee shops will be closed for the season starting in late September.

What to Do

• Denali Viewpoint North: This is a great quick stop on your drive towards Denali. On a clear day, it offers great views of the park. We liked this stop more than Denali Viewpoint South.
• Into the Wild Bus: Until 2020, this iconic bus was located in the wilderness, proving to be a dangerous and sometimes deadly excursion to see it. Now you will be able to see it at the University of Alaska Museum of the North in Fairbanks. The drive will take you 2 hrs from Denali. Or head to 49th State Brewing in Healy to see a replica bus and enjoy some beer.
• Northern Lights: Denali is a wonderful place to spot the vivid colors of aurora borealis. Make sure to check the forecast for Alaska and set your alarm. The best time to see the lights is around 3am in an area without light pollution. Fairbanks is an even better place to view the northern lights as it’s further North, but does require some more driving.
• Denali Sled Dogs: These furry friends serve as park rangers during the winter months. You can visit their kennels at mile 3 to see them relaxing, training, or heading out for a trip in the winter.
• Take a bus tour: One of the only ways to see the park is by riding the shuttle buses. Make sure to plan your trip out, bring snacks, as well as plenty of water! These buses run from Mid-May through Mid-September.
• Hiking
  • Mount Healy Overlook Trail: After a strenuous 6 mile hike, this overlook offered the most beautiful views of Denali park and Denali itself. I would only recommend this hike to someone who hikes regularly as the switchbacks become quite difficult. Make sure to layer. We started this trail feeling very hot, but ended up freezing at the top due to the elevation and wind.
  • Savage River Loop Trail: An easy 2 mile trek at mile 14, this loop is a great one for some wildlife spotting and boasts a little bridge across the river. Take the free shuttle from the visitor’s center as there is only a small parking lot that fills up quick.
  • Wonder Lake: All the way at mile 85, you will have to take the shuttle bus for an all day trip to view this beautiful lake nestled under the mountains. Make sure to pack food and bug spray. If you can, grab a campground spot at Wonder Lake Campground to enjoy this picturesque landscape.
  • Sugar Loaf Ridge: This 4.2 miles roundtrip trail is not inside the park, so it’s not maintained. But the views at the top are supposed to be amazing.

Restaurants & Bars:

• Moose-AKa’s: An eclectic restaurant serving up dishes with an Eastern European flare. They offer a few vegan options such as fry bread and stuffed peppers.
• 229 Parks: This sustainable restaurant is in a large wooden cabin and the dishes are served up by an inventive chef who highlights Alaska in every dish. Vegan options can be made upon request.
• Prospector’s Pizza: Rustic brick-oven pizza house with a wide selection of beers from Alaska and around the world. They offer several vegan pizzas to devour after a long day in the park.
• The Black Bear: A log cabin coffee house, serving up some gluten free and vegan options, is the perfect stop on your way to adventure.
• The Overlook: An outdoor restaurant with deck seating offering beautiful views while you dine. Vegan options can be made available if you ask your server.

Talkeetna

Talkeetna, a very quirky town north of Anchorage, used to have a cat as its mayor and has views of Denali mountain. The road there is a scenic drive, especially in the Fall when the leaves are yellow. Whether you’re stopping by for a few hours or spending the night, this little town will quickly become one of your favorites.

What to Do

• Flightseeing: This is a wonderful town to take a flight seeing tour as it’s nestled at the base of Denali. Take to the sky, and enjoy the beautiful landscape from above.
• Roadhouse: Built in 1917, the Roadhouse has served Talkeetna for over 100 years. Currently, you can stay overnight right down town or enjoy some great food.
• Stroll Main Street: Park your car and stretch your legs walking around the Talkeetna’s small downtown. There are plenty of fun places to grab a bite to eat, order a drink, or pick up a souvenir.

Restaurants & Bars:

• Conscious Coffee: A tiny walk up coffee shop with a small porch of couches. Grab a cup of joe, a vegan cream cheese bagel, and sit for a while.
• Mountain High Pizza Pie: Colorful pizza joint with the occasional live music. Grab a veggie pizza and swap out the cheese for a non-dairy alternative to veganize your pie.
• Denali Brewpub: Grab a six pack to-go or enjoy a cold beer on the deck with a veggie sandwich or veggie burger. Denali Brewpub is a great spot in the middle of town to sit and watch the day go by.
• Flying Squirrel: Just a little bit outside of the main town is this family owned bakery serving up all sorts of baked goods, even some vegan ones!
• Fairview Inn: Opened in 1923, this historic inn is now a great dive bar to grab a drink and listen to some live music. Or head out to their beer garden to enjoy your refreshment outside.
• Teepee Lounge: A funky dive bar a little ways off Main Street with free pool, live music, and good times.

Seward

This port city, once shaped by glaciers, is the entrance to the Kenai Fjords National Park. Seward’s waters are teeming with sea-life and surrounded by gorgeous mountains. You can hit the water, stroll through the fishing town, or come to take in the views & history.

One note on Seward: there can be a lot of rain. Make sure to pack a thick raincoat, waterproof pants, and rain boots. I thought my thin Columbia rain jacket would suffice, but the rain in Seward soaked through it!

What to Do

• Take a stroll: Walk around downtown and pop your head into the little shops, restaurants, and dive bars. Marvel at the boats from the docks of the harbor. Or head to the coastline and walk along to Lowell Point.
• Exit Glacier: This glacier isn’t one to miss. Not only is it really easy to get to compared to most glaciers, but it’s crazy seeing the effects of global warming on it over the years through markers along the way. See the markers on the simple 2 mile loop up to the glacier. Or choose a more challenging hike to Harding Icefield. It’s 8.2 miles round trip up to the icefield, but if that’s a little too challenging, you can hike to these stopping points and turn back:
  • Marmot Meadows – 4 miles round trip
  • Top of the Cliff – 6 miles round trip
• Explore the Iditarod Trail: While the current race begins in Anchorage, it once began in Seward where the trail starts. You can see the monument & mile 0 near downtown Seward. Or start hiking from the entrance along Nash Road.
• Alaska SeaLife Center: Serving as Alaska’s only marine mammal rehabilitation facility, the SeaLife Center is a wonderful business to support. For $30/adult, you can view marine mammals big and small!
• Boat Trip: There are plenty of different boat trips you can take from Seward. The most popular are the tours heading out to the Kenai Fjords to see the views, glaciers, and marine life along the way. They range from several hours to all day trips. Make sure to take some sea sickness medicine as the trip can be pretty rocky.

Restaurants & Bars

• Red’s Burgers: Cash-only burger joint with some unique food options. Grab a vegan burger & fries and eat in inside their school bus seating area.
• The Sea Bean: A casual coffee shop to grab a quick bite to eat. They have smoothie bowls, vegan pastries, and even a few vegan options for lunch!
• Frontier Trading Post: This place is actually a small market, but they have some awesome vegan grocery goods that are hard to find elsewhere in Alaska. They also make coffee and a few sandwiches at the back counter. It’s a great place to stock up on munchies before heading out on an adventure.
• SeaSalt: Situated along the bay, this small eatery offers cocktails, beer, wine, as well as some great food options. Stop by for lunch to try out their Tofu Fish and chips!
• Zudy’s Cafe: A small café offering a beautiful view the bay and mountains. They are very accommodating to veganizing breakfast or lunch options if you ask.
• Yukon Bar: No stop in Seward would be complete without a trip to this local watering hole. Ask the bartender for some markers and pins to leave your mark forever on the ceiling.

Homer

At the end-of-road of the Kenai Peninsula, Homer is a small charming town that shouldn’t be missed. With stunning views of Kachemak Bay, eclectic businesses, and a plethora of boat trips to choose from, the town offers plenty to any visitor making the trip down to the point.

What to Do

• Explore the Homer Spit: One of Homer’s biggest attractions is the Spit. It’s a small strip of land that continues 4.5 miles out on the water. You can camp, shop, eat, or stay along the Spit. I recommend staying here if you can.
• Bald Eagle Spotting: Walk along the beaches on the Spit and keep your eyes peeled for Bald Eagles. They are frequently spotted hanging out in the area!
• Take a ferry boat to Seldovia: This small yet charming town is across the bay from Homer. Only a little more than 200 people live in Seldovia, and it offers quaint restaurants serving up delicious eats. You can book an inexpensive ferry boat over to the town, and take a walk along its boardwalk before grabbing a bite to eat!
• Walk along Gallery Row downtown: Known as Alaska’s artist community, Gallery Row is a great place to window shop or purchase some art to bring home.
• Skyline Drive Overlook: Take a drive here at sunset to view the 180 degree view of Kachemak Bay and Homer.
• Kachemak State Bay Park: Hire a water taxi and take a trip out to Alaska’s first state park. You can choose from plenty of hikes or rent kayaks to explore this park from the water.

Restaurants & Bars:

• The Cool Juicy Bus: The coolest place you’ll ever order a smoothie from. The owner strives to source everything local to make their fresh juices and smoothies.
• The Bagel Shop: The perfect place to pop in and grab a bagel, or two! They even offer vegan cream cheese and a vegan sandwich.
• Two Sisters Bakery: An amazing bakery offering an array of selections for every traveler. Grab a coffee and a vegan baked good to start your morning off right.
• Little Mermaid: A cute local restaurant serving up an array of fresh foods. They have a few vegan options or veganizable options, such as pizza without cheese, falafel plate, rice bowl, and more.
• Grace Ridge Brewing: Small warehouse micro brewery with six taps to enjoy on their patio or to-go.
• Homer Brewing: Cabin-style brewery with delicious beers to try inside or outside depending on the weather.
• Salty Dawg Saloon: With a rich history beginning in the late 1800’s, you cannot pass up making a stop by Salty Dawg Saloon. Make sure to bring cash and a few one dollar bills so you can leave your mark on the walls of the Saloon.

Girdwood

Girdwood is a hip mountain town a short distance south of Anchorage. The town offers activities no matter the season, such as mountain biking, skiing, snowboarding, hiking, and more!

What to Do

• Beluga Point: Along the Turnagain Arm, you have to take a stop at Beluga Point or one of the pull-offs on the way to Girdwood. Keep your eyes peeled for flashes of white in the water to spot Beluga whales swimming along. We spotted over 10 whales along our drive.
• Bore Tide: One of largest bore tides in the world, this tide travels along the Turnagain Arm reaching heights of ten feet tall. Specific tides and moon phases are required to see the tide so it’s a treat if you get to see it. If you’re really lucky, you may see locals surfing the tide.
• Alyeska Aerial Tram: This tram ride is a wonderful way to see the city and take in the beautiful views. Tickets prices are $35/adult and you can ski, snowboard, hike, or eat lunch from the top.
• Winner Creek Trail: A easy, 6.4 mile round trip hike that boasts beautiful views of gorges, rivers, and even a hand tram to help you cross a river. There is an option to only do this hike one way in the summer by taking a free bus that takes you back to town.
• Whittier: Named the weirdest & wettest town in America, you have to take a little trip to the town of Whittier. Getting to the town is odd enough as you have to pay $13 and wait up to 30 minutes to pass through a one-way 2.5 mile tunnel. You can follow the historic walking trail through town, hike to Portage Glacier, kayak, or wander the harbor. View the tunnel schedule here, although when we went, they weren’t following the posted schedule causing us to wait 30 minutes.
• Glaciers:
  • Portage Glacier: An easy, 4 mile round trip hike to the Portage glacier. The hike will end at Portage lake across from the glacier.
  • Byron Glacier: There are two ways to see the glacier. The first is to take an easy 3.2 mile round trip hike up to the glacier. You can get close enough to touch this glacier as well as check out the ice caves, but only do this in the winter as it’s not safe in the summer. The second and easier option is to stop by the visitors center and spot the glacier from the deck.
  • Spencer Glacier: Another glacier to visit with an easy hike there. It’s a 4.9 mile round trip to the lake at the bottom of the Spencer Glacier.
• Alyeska Resort: There is plenty to do at the resort even if you’re not staying there. Whether it’s skiing, snowboarding, mountain biking, yoga, or having a spa day, the resort offers many activities for visitors to Girdwood.
• Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center: Definitely take a trip to the conservation center! It’s $17/adult which is a great price for all the animals you get to see. You can either walk the property to see each animal, or drive around making stops to hop out and get a closer look.

Restaurants & Bars:

• Jack Sprat: This restaurant is a must when visiting Girdwood. It’s a rustic cabin with expansive windows. They have delicious vegan options. Make sure to make a reservation a head of time. If there is a line, grab a drink and wander over to the adjacent shop while you wait.
• Spoonline: A bistro style restaurant serving brunch, lunch, and dinner. Try their vegan breakfast burrito or bowl during weekend brunch!
• Girdwood Brewing Company: Grab a delicious beer from this ski-themed brewery. Sit inside or near a firepit outside. They frequently have a food truck out back.
• Sitzmark Bar & Grill: Situated in the Alyeska Resort, this bar has massive windows making it an enjoyable environment to grab a drink and listen to some live music.
• The Double Musky Inn: A Cajun roadhouse with Mardi-Gras themed décor. Grab a drink, an appetizer, and take in the history this place has.